| Top home-buying mistakes revealed By Dian Hymer
The
first rule of inspecting a home you want to buy is to stay intimately involved
in the process, and to leave no stone unturned. If you're busy or traveling
during the time period, you have to complete your due diligence investigations
by enlisting the aid of a friend you trust to stand in on your behalf -- someone
who will keep you well informed as inspections proceed.
Buyers want to be sure they get a good deal on the home they buy. This is
especially so if they're buying in a soft market. Whether a property is a good
deal depends on its condition, its location and the price paid.
Most buyers don't take the inspection process far enough. They hire a home
inspector to do a general home inspection to make sure that all systems are in
working order and that there aren't any serious defects that might affect their
decision to buy or not.
For some buyers, this constitutes their due diligence inspection of the
property. But, in many cases, simply having a home inspection done is not enough
to ensure that you don't end up regretting you bought the property.
Most home inspectors recommend further inspections. Some buyers take these
admonitions seriously and some don't. A recommendation that is often overlooked
is to research the permit history.
If you don't check the permit history, you could find out later, when you want
to take out a permit for a renovation, that there are expired permits for work
that never received a final approval from the city inspector. You might be
required to reinstate the expired permits and finish the job to the building
department's satisfaction before you can take out a permit for a new project.
This could be expensive, take time, and at the least, be a hassle.
Another item buyers ignore is the cost of routine home maintenance. Some homes
cost more to maintain than others. Well-maintained homes will be easier to
maintain because you'll have little deferred maintenance to repair.
Ask the sellers for information about how much they pay per year for tree
trimming, painting, and servicing house systems such as the roof, furnace and
drainage systems. Also ask how much the utility bills run in an average winter
and summer month. All of this will factor into the cost of owning the home.
Buyers usually focus on the price they'll pay upfront for a house. How much it
will cost them over time should also be factored into the total cost of home
ownership.
HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Buyers tend to pay more attention to the condition of the
home they're buying than they do to finding out all they need to know about the
area in which they'll be living. The home you buy is not a good value if you
find out a year later that the neighborhood is declining. Make sure you find out
if homeowners are moving in or out of the area. If you see a lot of remodeling
going on in a neighborhood, this is a good sign that the homeowners plan to stay
put. Another good sign is if there are few listings and the ones that come on
the market sell quickly. This indicates a high demand for the neighborhood.
You'll also want to find out about crime in the neighborhood, and whether or
not there is development planned in the area that might have a positive or
negative impact on the neighborhood. And check into the general state of the
local economy.
THE CLOSING: Are businesses hiring new employees or issuing pink slips?
Copyright © 2008 Inman News - Dian Hymer
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| How to deduct mortgage interest, points on taxes By Benny Kass
Are
you in the market for a mortgage loan? Whether the loan is to buy a new home or
to refinance your existing mortgage, you must shop around. Contact a number of
mortgage lenders. Get rate quotes for a fixed 30-year mortgage as well as for
adjustable-rate loans.
Find out what the monthly payment will be for each type of loan, but then before
you make your final decision, plug in the amount of the mortgage interest that
you will be able to deduct.
How do you do this? Let's look at this example. You find a house that you want
to buy and sign a contract for $475,000. You have been saving money for a long
time in order to buy your first house, and plan to put down 20 percent ($95,000)
and get a loan in the amount of $380,000.
One lender is prepared to lend you this money at 6.5 percent for 30 years, and
the monthly payments (exclusive of real estate taxes and insurance) will be
$2,402. Another lender has offered you a 5-year adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM)
starting at 5.75 percent. This will require a monthly payment of $2,218.
The difference is $184 per month or more than $2,200 per year. Since you are
married, file a joint tax return and your taxable income is between $128,500 and
$195,800, you know that you are in the 28 percent tax bracket for income tax
purposes. Oversimplified, that means that every dollar you pay in mortgage
interest can be reduced by 28 percent. So now, after doing the math, the
difference between the two types of mortgages is only $132 per month (or $1,584
per year).
It is important to take into consideration the tax deductions available to
homeowners when considering what kind of mortgage to get. If you plan to stay in
the house for a long period of time, you may be willing to accept the fixed
30-year loan, rather than be subjected to a potentially steep increase five
years from now when your ARM will adjust.
It is this very issue that is one of the primary causes of the current "mortgage
meltdown" confronting our nation's homeowners. Many consumers opted for a 100
percent interest-only (or adjustable-rate mortgage) two or three years ago and
now have been told that their monthly payment will dramatically increase. These
homeowners cannot afford the new payment, and since property values have
declined in many parts of the country, they are unable to refinance to get a
better mortgage rate.
Let's look at several interest deductions that can save you money while
preparing your 2007 income tax return:
1. Mortgage insurance premiums: If you are able to put down 20 percent or more
as a down payment on your home, should you go into default and the home has to
be foreclosed, most lenders are comfortable that there will be sufficient equity
so that they will not lose any money.
However, if you are unable -- or unwilling -- to put down a lot of money and
want a larger loan, there are two things that lenders can do. They can require
that you put down only 5 or 10 percent and give you two loans: one for 80
percent and a second trust for the 10 or 15 percent difference.
Alternatively, they can require that you obtain private mortgage insurance. This
is coverage -- which the homeowner pays for -- to compensate the lender should
there be a shortfall between the amount of the money received at a foreclosure
sale and the loan balance.
There is also governmental mortgage insurance provided by the Federal Housing
Administration (FHA); the Veteran's Administration (VA), called a funding fee;
and the Rural Housing Service, called a guarantee fee.
If you entered into a transaction after Jan. 1, 2007, that included some form of
mortgage insurance, you may have the right to deduct these insurance payments as
home mortgage interest. However, there are some restrictions. First, the
insurance must be in connection with home acquisition debt. This means that the
loan is secured either by your principal residence or a vacation home that is
not rented out for more than 14 days a year.
The insurance contract must have been issued after Jan. 1, 2007. The deduction
is reduced by 10 percent for each $1,000 that the adjusted gross income (AGI)
exceeds $100,000 (or $50,000 if you file an individual tax return). If your AGI
is more than $109,000 ($54,500 if filing separately) then you cannot take
advantage of this deduction.
If you sold your house last year -- or refinanced it -- thereby cancelling the
mortgage insurance, unless the insurance was provided by the VA or the Rural
Housing Service, you cannot claim a deduction for the unamortized balance of the
premium.
2. Mortgage interest: Interest on mortgage loans on a first or second home is
fully deductible, subject to the following limitations: acquisition loans up to
$1 million, and home-equity loans up to $100,000. If you are married, but file
separately, the limits are split in half.
The concept of "acquisition loan" is often difficult to understand. To qualify
for such a loan, you must buy, construct or substantially improve your home. If
you refinance for more than the outstanding indebtedness, the excess amount does
not qualify as an acquisition loan unless you use all of the excess to improve
your home or treat it as a home-equity loan.
This can best be understood by an example: You want to take advantage of current
mortgage rates, which are still quite low, and refinance your existing $250,000
loan. Your house is assessed for tax purposes at $750,000.
Based on your credit and the equity in your house, your lender is prepared to
give you a mortgage loan of $500,000. Because your "acquisition indebtedness" is
$250,000, you will be able to deduct interest only up to $350,000 -- that is,
the acquisition indebtedness plus the maximum $100,000 home equity.
The Internal Revenue Service has ruled that one does not have to take out a
separate home-equity loan to qualify for this aspect of the tax deduction. The
remaining interest is treated as personal interest, and is not deductible.
3. Seller-paid points: Here's an area often overlooked by buyers. Points paid
to a mortgage lender will reduce interest rates. Each point is 1 percent of the
loan, so that on a $300,000 mortgage, a borrower will have to pay $3,000. And
typically, for every point that you pay a lender, the interest rate will be
reduced by one-eighth of a percent.
When negotiating a real estate sales contract, buyers will often ask the seller
to make certain financial concessions so that a deal can be reached. Such
concessions include (1) the seller paying some or all of the buyer's closing
costs, (2) the seller giving a cash credit at settlement, or (3) the seller
paying some or all of the buyer's points.
The IRS has ruled that points paid by a seller can be deducted by the purchaser.
Let us look at your example. You will pay $450,000 for your new house and obtain
a loan of $360,000. The lender can give you a fixed 30-year conventional loan
for 6.5 percent, with no points, or 6.25 percent with 2 points, for $7,200. If
you can convince your seller to pay this sum -- and have your sales contract
reflect that the seller is paying this money as points -- you should be able to
fully deduct the entire payment from your income tax that you file for this
year.
There is one drawback to deducting seller-paid points: The amount of the points
paid by the seller will be used to reduce the purchaser's tax basis -- the
number that will eventually be used to calculate whether a sale results in
taxable capital gains. In our example, if you pay $450,000 for the property, and
deduct the $7,200 of seller-paid points, your tax basis in the property becomes
$442,800 ($450,000 minus $7,200).
Under current tax law, this may not be a problem for home buyers. As will be
discussed later in this series of articles, taxpayers who live in their house
for at least two years can fully exclude from taxable income up to $250,000 of
gain ($500,000 for married couples filing a joint return) on the sale of their
principal residence.
Thus, the lower tax basis may not be significant -- unless the taxpayer makes a
profit that exceeds these amounts.
On Jan. 16, 2008, the IRS announced that it has revised
Publication 17, Your
Federal Income Tax. According to the IRS, they have "added new features to
assist taxpayers to more easily navigate this widely used publication. The
online version of Publication 17 now contains electronic links for greater ease
of use."
Two other useful IRS documents are
Publication 936,
entitled "Home Mortgage Interest Deductions," and
Publication 910, "IRS
Guide to Free Tax Services." It is to be noted that the IRS has cautioned
consumers that if a Web site purporting to be from the IRS does not contain the
".gov" suffix, it is not a legitimate IRS Web site.
Copyright © 2008 Inman News - Benny Kass
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